Textile Swatches

Riedizioni: Luisa Cevese

One of my favorite possessions are bags made by Milan- based, Luisa Cevese- produced using textile waste from industrial textile production. When Ms. Cevese worked as research director for a silk mill in Como, Italy, she was shocked by the quantity of waste generated. Through her company 'Riedizioni', founded in 1994, she collects these scraps, arranges them by hand in a flat composition and encases them in plastic sheets to create a composite material that is durable and visually intriguing. This 'fabric' is then made into accessory products including- bags, placemats, floormats, etc. These can be purchased through the MoMa design store and select retailers and online stores.

She also did a collection of textiles called 'Ply' for textile company Maharam. It features interlocking yarns (jute, chenile & tweed) encased between layers of polyurethane.

ECOPRINT: India Flint

                          

The Ecoprint is a water-based printing process using relatively small amounts of plant material as compared to traditional dye methods.

India Flint, a Melbourne native, who is settled on a small family farm in South Australia, devised this method by applying vegetable color to cloth using small amounts of plant material in a recycled dye-bath. All of the vegetation comes from her farm, while the cloth is woven from the wool of her own flock of sheep.

The result is an eco chic look of luxurious tie-dye and one can notice the imprint and patterns of the leaves and plants used. She creates a collection of clothing and commissioned textiles from her Ecoprints.

To keep an ecological balance, she plants a tree in Hope Springs for each item she sells!

Exhibit: CHANEL Mobile Art

                 

After it's stops in Hong Kong and Tokyo this mobile exhibit arrives in NYC, Rumsey Playfield at 70th street in Central Park. October 20- November 9, 2008.

Chanel commissioned London architect, Zaha Hadid, to create the traveling exhibit structure to house works by about 15 contemporary, international artists. Each was asked to create a work that was atleast in part inspired by the identity of the classic Chanel quilted-style chain handbag.

A traveling exhibit, with admission free to all, will circulate around the world for two years.

Admission is free, although visitors are advised to book timed tickets at Chanel Mobile Art.

Next stops... London... Moscow... Paris.

Hand Block Printing

One of my favorite textile processes of applying a pattern onto a surface of cloth is Hand Block printing. It is a process where one repeat of the design's motif is carved by hand on teak wood blocks. It can take up to 80 hours to carve a single block. The fabric to be printed is stretched across a large wooden table. The printmaker applies dye to the carved block and then stamps it on to the fabric, repeating the process across the entire cloth. Patterns generally require multiple colors, which are applied one at a time, using a different block for each color. Block printing requires precision. A printer must know exactly where to place the blocks so that he does not break the continuity of the design. Registration marks are used to help align the patterns. Because it's all handcrafted, no two pieces will be exactly like each other.

Some of my favorite blockprint resources are-

Galbraith and Paul handcrafted in Philadelphia. Fun, contemporary designs.

Muriel Brandolini- a collection of fabrics by this New York based French-Vietnamese interior designer. Produced in Jaipur, India. Beautiful, saturated colors.

 

John Robshaw produces textiles and home furnishings in South East Asia. Traditional prints in refreshing colors.

 

Anokhi based in Jaipur, India... has been block printing for 30+ years. They do clothing and home furnishings. Anokhi has about 20 retail stores in all the major cities of India.

 

Anokhi has a great museum in Amber, Rajasthan, depicting the blockprint process. I was lucky to tour the museum a couple of years ago when it first opened.

Here is a link to a video tour of the museum (2:38)

Lastly... my first collection has been created using handblock printing combined with other processes... will keep you posted on the launch!

Wonderful world of Embroidery

Just received my October 2008 copy of one of my favorite magazines, British publication- 'World of Interiors'. As I turned the pages, on page 320 came across an interesting article on  'Le Musee Provencal du Costume et de Bijou' run by Fragonard Parfumeurs, in the town of Grasse, Provence. It showcases a private collection of 18th and 19th century Provencal costume and jewelry. It holds the memory of a simple, refined, noble way of life. The collection includes over 200 pieces of clothing from the time period. The reason Provencal costume is so rich is probably because raw materials were available locally. In the 18th century- hemp, cotton and flax were all grown in the area. Silk was available there since the 14th century, as well as dye plants like sumac, saffron and madder. 

What struck me about the images were the colors and the embellishments and details!

 

Got me thinking about couture embroidery and reminded me of Jean-Francois Lesage. Who continues the Lesage family legacy of couture embroidery since 1868. His workshop is located in Madras, India since 1993 and he has 120 craftsmen working with him. Here are some beautiful examples of their work.