Textile Swatches

Riedizioni: Luisa Cevese

One of my favorite possessions are bags made by Milan- based, Luisa Cevese- produced using textile waste from industrial textile production. When Ms. Cevese worked as research director for a silk mill in Como, Italy, she was shocked by the quantity of waste generated. Through her company 'Riedizioni', founded in 1994, she collects these scraps, arranges them by hand in a flat composition and encases them in plastic sheets to create a composite material that is durable and visually intriguing. This 'fabric' is then made into accessory products including- bags, placemats, floormats, etc. These can be purchased through the MoMa design store and select retailers and online stores.

She also did a collection of textiles called 'Ply' for textile company Maharam. It features interlocking yarns (jute, chenile & tweed) encased between layers of polyurethane.

In the Showrooms: Thomas Paul for Duralee

                                              

Thomas Paul is known for his bold colors, iconic patterns and signature style. He began his career in the design world in the fashion business and has developed neckwear collections for designer names including: Calvin Klein, DKNY and Oscar de la Renta. Eventually this led to a creation of his own neckwear collection, and then to the thomaspaul pillow collection. Since 2001 the brand has grown into other categories, including tabletop, rugs, stationary, lighting, bags and wall art.

His bright graphic patterns can now be bought by the yard in his first fabric collection for Duralee.

  

 

Lulan Artisans

Lulan Artisans, founded in 2004 by Eve Blossom fuses contemporary design with centuries-old South East Asian textile techniques and traditions. The exceptional crafts and distinctive cultures of Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand and India, are reinterpreted in a unique collaboration between American designers and gifted Asian artisans. Lulan designs and produces high quality handwoven, hand dyed natural textiles used as upholstery drapery, pillows, etc. The company follows sustainable business practices and their philosophy is reflected in the craftsmanship, and the natural materials and process found in their textiles.

I had the pleasure of seeing the gorgeous product in person at ICFF 2008 and of meeting Eve.

Her dedication and commitment to her cause is commendable.

Designer Profile: Hella Jongerius

Hella Jongerius is a multi disciplinary product designer. Her products are created giving not only thought to form, but also history, tradition and contemporary inspiration. Her work deliberately shows the traces of how they were made, embracing imperfections and unusual mixtures of materials and techniques. She calls her approach 'form follows feeling'. Her work combines craft with industry. which is a strong focus in my work and that's why I admire her groundbreaking efforts. 

She started her Rotterdam-based company 'JongeriusLab' in 2000. They create products including ceramics, textiles, tableware and furniture. Her clients include: Manufaktur Nymphenburg, Vitra, Ikea, Maharam, etc

Two of my all time favorites of her products are-

Repeat big bowl with green embroidery- produced in 2002 for the store Moss in New York. Porcelain with embroidery. Produced in a limited edition of 7 pieces.

From her Layers collection for fabric company, Maharam.

Is Layers Park Double

The process  involves machine embroidering 2 layers of wool felt with the pattern and then using lasers to cut 'windows' in certain parts of the top layers to reveal the lower layer of felt.

Below is Layers Vineyard

 

Check the link for a video of Hella describing the process of producing the Layers collection.

More about Embroidery...

To continue the thread about embroidery... There are so many companies, designers and craftsmen working with embroidery today. Here is one of my favorites, more tomorrow...

 JUDY ROSS. Her work combines the centuries old traditional hand embroidery technique of Crewel embroidery with modern designs. She has a Fine Arts background and this is evident in the 'painterly' style of her work. Here is an example of her work. I like her products because she has really pushed the boundaries to develop a new look for this traditional art form- she is partly responsible for the revival of this technique. 

Traditionally, we've seen crewels that look more like this- 'Himachal' from Beacon Hill fabrics.

What is Crewel Embroidery?

It is a decorative form of surface embroidery using wool thread and a variety of different stitches to follow a design outline applied to fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old. Crewel wool has a long staple; it is fine and can be strongly twisted. Modern crewel wool is typically a fine, 2-ply or 1-ply yarn. Chain stitch, one of the primary stitches used in Crewel, is a technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Here's a link to a great book on Crewel Embroidery.

Suzanis

Suzanis have been a trend in Home textiles for at least the last year. They've gained in popularity and there's been a remarkable revival of this traditional art form... I think they are here to stay! Like the paisley, I think Suzanis have become a category of textile that remain of interest to us.

So what is a Suzani?

 

'Suzani' is the Persian or Farsi word for needle and connotes needlework. It is synonymous with the glorious embroideries of Uzbekistan, in Central Asia and refers to textile panels embroidered with silk thread. The suzani was an integral part of a woman's artistic expression. Traditionally, as soon as a girl was born her mother would start embroidering the suzani for her. As the daughter grew older, she would join in the process. The suzani would eventually become a part of her dowry and be used to decorate her home.

If you have an interest to purchase antique or reproduction suzani pieces, check out Tessera

Some contemporary fabrics inspired by suzanis can be seen in the collection of Schumacher. 

As in the Konya Suzani

And Usak weave

Anthropologie too has bedding inspired by suzanis. The Kapali bedding set-

   

And ABC Carpet and Home in New York city is a great resource too