Textile Swatches

Riedizioni: Luisa Cevese

One of my favorite possessions are bags made by Milan- based, Luisa Cevese- produced using textile waste from industrial textile production. When Ms. Cevese worked as research director for a silk mill in Como, Italy, she was shocked by the quantity of waste generated. Through her company 'Riedizioni', founded in 1994, she collects these scraps, arranges them by hand in a flat composition and encases them in plastic sheets to create a composite material that is durable and visually intriguing. This 'fabric' is then made into accessory products including- bags, placemats, floormats, etc. These can be purchased through the MoMa design store and select retailers and online stores.

She also did a collection of textiles called 'Ply' for textile company Maharam. It features interlocking yarns (jute, chenile & tweed) encased between layers of polyurethane.

ALETA artisan fabrics for Interior Design

Aleta Bartel-Orton, a Canadian living in London, founded her fabric company Aleta in 2003. She is best known for specializing in fabrics inspired by the decorative arts of 17th century Mughal India, from the finest reproductions of ancient textiles to contemporary reinterpretations of classic motifs. The 'Aleta' line consists of 100% natural fiber fabrics- cottons and linens and is manufactured in England. 

                        

                                                

In addition she distributes the renowned block printed floral textiles of Brigitte Singh and she has a specialty paint collection with bespoke paint company- Francesca's Paint. The colors coordinate with Aleta's fabric collection. Colors such as Mughal Spring, Indian Summer and Monsoon Rains.

  

In the Showrooms: Thomas Paul for Duralee

                                              

Thomas Paul is known for his bold colors, iconic patterns and signature style. He began his career in the design world in the fashion business and has developed neckwear collections for designer names including: Calvin Klein, DKNY and Oscar de la Renta. Eventually this led to a creation of his own neckwear collection, and then to the thomaspaul pillow collection. Since 2001 the brand has grown into other categories, including tabletop, rugs, stationary, lighting, bags and wall art.

His bright graphic patterns can now be bought by the yard in his first fabric collection for Duralee.

  

 

Lulan Artisans

Lulan Artisans, founded in 2004 by Eve Blossom fuses contemporary design with centuries-old South East Asian textile techniques and traditions. The exceptional crafts and distinctive cultures of Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand and India, are reinterpreted in a unique collaboration between American designers and gifted Asian artisans. Lulan designs and produces high quality handwoven, hand dyed natural textiles used as upholstery drapery, pillows, etc. The company follows sustainable business practices and their philosophy is reflected in the craftsmanship, and the natural materials and process found in their textiles.

I had the pleasure of seeing the gorgeous product in person at ICFF 2008 and of meeting Eve.

Her dedication and commitment to her cause is commendable.

Designer Profile: Hella Jongerius

Hella Jongerius is a multi disciplinary product designer. Her products are created giving not only thought to form, but also history, tradition and contemporary inspiration. Her work deliberately shows the traces of how they were made, embracing imperfections and unusual mixtures of materials and techniques. She calls her approach 'form follows feeling'. Her work combines craft with industry. which is a strong focus in my work and that's why I admire her groundbreaking efforts. 

She started her Rotterdam-based company 'JongeriusLab' in 2000. They create products including ceramics, textiles, tableware and furniture. Her clients include: Manufaktur Nymphenburg, Vitra, Ikea, Maharam, etc

Two of my all time favorites of her products are-

Repeat big bowl with green embroidery- produced in 2002 for the store Moss in New York. Porcelain with embroidery. Produced in a limited edition of 7 pieces.

From her Layers collection for fabric company, Maharam.

Is Layers Park Double

The process  involves machine embroidering 2 layers of wool felt with the pattern and then using lasers to cut 'windows' in certain parts of the top layers to reveal the lower layer of felt.

Below is Layers Vineyard

 

Check the link for a video of Hella describing the process of producing the Layers collection.

Hand Block Printing

One of my favorite textile processes of applying a pattern onto a surface of cloth is Hand Block printing. It is a process where one repeat of the design's motif is carved by hand on teak wood blocks. It can take up to 80 hours to carve a single block. The fabric to be printed is stretched across a large wooden table. The printmaker applies dye to the carved block and then stamps it on to the fabric, repeating the process across the entire cloth. Patterns generally require multiple colors, which are applied one at a time, using a different block for each color. Block printing requires precision. A printer must know exactly where to place the blocks so that he does not break the continuity of the design. Registration marks are used to help align the patterns. Because it's all handcrafted, no two pieces will be exactly like each other.

Some of my favorite blockprint resources are-

Galbraith and Paul handcrafted in Philadelphia. Fun, contemporary designs.

Muriel Brandolini- a collection of fabrics by this New York based French-Vietnamese interior designer. Produced in Jaipur, India. Beautiful, saturated colors.

 

John Robshaw produces textiles and home furnishings in South East Asia. Traditional prints in refreshing colors.

 

Anokhi based in Jaipur, India... has been block printing for 30+ years. They do clothing and home furnishings. Anokhi has about 20 retail stores in all the major cities of India.

 

Anokhi has a great museum in Amber, Rajasthan, depicting the blockprint process. I was lucky to tour the museum a couple of years ago when it first opened.

Here is a link to a video tour of the museum (2:38)

Lastly... my first collection has been created using handblock printing combined with other processes... will keep you posted on the launch!